Navy Blazer 1.

on středa 23. října 2013
I've never made a classic tailored jacket. You know, everyone says it's so difficult and no one in their right mind would try that, when you can buy a decent blazer for a good price... but I think it's time to try. I would love to have a blazer that would really fit me. I'm a size 10/12 UK, but with hourglass figure, and it's not easy to find a good blazer. If it fits my waist, it pulls over the breast. If it fits boobs, it hangs like a curtain in the back and around the waist. Everything seems so boxy and flat.

I want a sharp, smooth, curvy blazer; I would prefer longer, narow lapels and maybe the jacket itselft might be slightly longer to smooth over the hips and give a lean, elegant look.

I looked for a pattern in my stash of Burda magazines; I also looked at some blazer photos to find out what I would like.

These two blazers are from (left Theory, right Stella McCartney). Both have the classic cut with waist darts that allow precise shaping.

I found these two patterns in Burda:

The princess seam one (on the right) would be probably easier to sew, but I'm afraid it wouldn't allow the shaping I need. I'm gonna use the left one and do some alterations (no sleeve vents, maybe different pockets). I'm gonna keep the breast pocket, I like the idea of tucking a handkerchief there for a more masculine feel :) I'm also happy with the one button closure.

I bought 2 meters of a dark navy wool/PES mix in the cheap fabrics store for about $5/metre; if I mess up, I won't spoil an expensive fabric. I also bought hair canvas for interfacings. I want to use both hair canvas and fusible interfacing.

And my guides on the road to the perfect blazer? Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket and Couture Sewing Techniques. If I get stuck, I'm gonna bug my mom. (Hope that won't be necessary, because each phone call regarding a simple dressmaking question inevitably changes into an hour long chat!)

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